As more consumers demand safety in their beauty products, the natural cosmetics industry has responded with increasing quality and diversity. But as with all cosmetics, there is no regulation of ingredients or legal standards for terms such as “natural” or “pure.” Organic can be especially misleading — products may use oils from organically grown fruits and still be loaded with chemicals. So Whole Foods Market and Sephora, two of the biggest retailers of natural beauty products in the nation, have instituted their own systems for certifying the purity of these products.
Whole Foods has worked with the goals of the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics to create its Premium Body Care standards. Products marked with this seal are free of the problematic chemicals commonly found in conventional cosmetics, and meet strong ecological criteria.
“The most significant growth is in products that meet our premium standards, which is interesting because that happened the same time the economy took a dive,” says Megan Cross, Whole Foods Whole Body buyer for the Mid-Atlantic region.
Because of the generally higher price of premium products such as the popular Dr. Hauschka line from Germany and Gabriel cosmetics, Whole Foods also offers less expensive products. Its own 365 brand and others pass the store’s basic standards test — they may contain gentle preservatives and non-irritating chemicals. In either case, switching to natural products can be an adjustment.
“We are used to things that foam and suds and think that’s what makes us clean,” Ms. Cross says. “When you get into a clean, organic product, there isn’t anything that foams up. You get into weird consistencies, so the customer returns it because they don’t think it’s effective. This is really about re-educating our customers that just because it doesn’t foam, that doesn’t mean it’s not cleaning.”
A 24-year veteran of the natural products industry, Ms. Cross says the tremendous growth has attracted all of the big players. “All these companies that never cared before see how much money is involved,” she notes, adding that the trend can have a positive effect.
“Clorox, which bought Burt’s Bees, has more money dedicated to research and development, so it was beneficial because it helped Burt’s Bees to grow. By the same token, Burt’s Bees helped Clorox. Within two years after buying them, they launched the Green Works line of home cleaners.”
Sephora, which has 750 stores in 21 countries, created a Naturally Sephora logo to direct customers to the 20 natural lines it sells. These products exclude a minimum of six of eight harmful ingredients, “because sometimes an equally effective, viable, natural alternative is not yet available,” the website states. But it’s important to not assume that all products by the same company are “safe.”
Jamie Anderson, Sephora education and skin care specialist, says the chain is all about options.
“But there continues to be increased importance and attention from clients looking for natural products. We audited our natural products to distinguish which ones we should categorize as natural because there isn’t a unified standard. We go through the steps to confirm or validate whether they meet our standards. We based our decision on our client’s needs — the ingredients most commonly asked about. And not just what isn’t in a product, but what is in it.”
Sephora teaches its customers how to apply natural makeup, suggesting the use of a primer and several layers to enhance longevity in lieu of the chemicals that conventional cosmetics employ for that purpose. Popular natural brands at Sephora include Josie Maran, Korres, Bare Escentuals, Lavanila, Juice Beauty, Jurlique, Tarte and a variety of items from the Sephora Collection.
“Natural products work differently,” Ms. Anderson notes. “It’s not bad or good, it’s different. The good news is that we have made strides. There are great options that clients have had success with.”
Some other natural product lines are Aubrey Organics, Perfect Organics and Naturals by Lauren Hutton. Always check the ingredients, which are generally fully disclosed in truly natural products. Locally, natural products can be found at the East End Co-op, Today’s Market in Oakmont, Right By Nature in the Strip District and specialty salons. Shop online through websites such as www.natural-living-for-women.com, and you can check a product’s safety rating at the Environmental Working Group’s website www.cosmeticsdatabase.com.
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